12 Food Streets in India you should explore!

We all love to eat. As travellers we always love to explore local cuisine. Whether it is "Benne Dose in Davanagere" or Poha Jalebi in Bhopal or Momos in Mirik or Kashmiri Chai in Kashmir it has always been a gourmet experience for us. In fact we have gone in search of well known and iconic places wherever we have travelled. While some cities have some lovely stand alone restaurants, others do have streets lined with fabulous eating joints. When we started listing the "food streets" we surprised at the list. We present below the food streets you should not miss while travelling in India. 

1. Bengaluru - VV Puram, Mosque road, Avenue road and Church street

A typical menu in food Street

Naturally we are starting with Bengaluru, our home town. The city is a gourmet's paradise. We can easily identify food streets in three places - VV Puram, Mosque road, Church street and Nagarthpet/Avenue road. Go to food street in VV Puram for all types of South Indian food - Akki rotti (Rice roti), Idlis, Dosas - many varieties, Mandakki, Dabeli etc etc. Mosque road and surroundings is for you if you are looking for Non vegetarian food. Start with iconic Albert bakery for Kheema puffs and explore for Biryanis, Goshts, rolls etc This place is a must visit for non vegetarian lovers especially during Ramadan month. The Avenue road/Nagarthpet opens up in the evening. Savour the dosas and Idlis and other south India snacks. Lastly, Church street is for all those who yearn for continental stuff. Look out for rolls, coffee shop, dough nuts and ofcourse sip the authentic coffee in India coffee house!

2. Mumbai - Muhammad Ali road

Malpuas in Suleiman

This is a meat eater's delight. Start from Minara Masjid and enjoy the culinary delights as you explore the stalls on the street. The variety of kebabs, barbecues, curries is overwhelming. My Bambayya friend who is a hardcore non vegetarian says that he has to visit this place once a week, if not more! Being veggies we go by his experience. If brave enough, cross over to Bhendi Bazar for Bara Handi. End the meal with Firni and Malpuas from Suleiman Usman Mithaiwala.

3. Kolkata - Gol Park

A spread @ Mouchak

The Two KMs stretch from Gol Park to Dhakuria bridge is a paradise of Kathi rolls. But you will also get a taste of Kolkata biryani. Veggies can take a heart too. Mouchak serves Puri - Sabjee and Hing Kachoris, and of course Sondesh. Savour Pucchkas at small stalls of Pushkwalas near dhakuria bridge. What about fish? Yes, Benfish, the Bengal Fisheries department parks its van outside Dakshinapan serving mouth watering fish fingers etc.

4. Delhi - Paranthawale Galli

Parathas under preparation

Your trip to Delhi will not be complete without visiting the streets of Old Delhi. Crispy Parotas from Pandit Kanhaiyalal Dixit, hot jalebis from "Old and Famous jalebiwala", Golgappas from Balaji chaats, Kachoris, Biryani and muglai dishes around Jumma Masjid area in Bakra, Jawahar Hotel, Rabri-Falooda from Gianji's. You will be spoilt for choice.

5. Indore - Sarafa Bazar

Joshi's Dahi vada stall

Sarafa bazar is equivalent of Chartori Galli of Bhopal. A mecca for vegetarians. Dahi vada and Butta Khees at Joshi's, Chats at Vijay Chat. For more details check out this post in this blog.

Food streets of Indore

6. Bhopal - Chartori Galli

Kebab buns @ Chartori Galli

A narrow lane in Ibrahimpura in Bhopal. This is street food in true sense. A food street rich in Bhopali Mughlai flavours. A mecca for meat and fish lovers. Marinated meats & fishes are displayed in front of you & are made on request right in front of you. There is almost nothing that is made & stored. This is also the place to savour the famous "Kebab bun" of Bhopal. For vegetarians, you have samosas and heavenly Suleimani Chai!

7. Lucknow - Chowk and Aminabad

Kebabs @ Chowk

Chowk in Lucknow is a foodie's paradise, mostly non vegetarian. You start with delicate Gilouti Kebabs in iconic Tundey's and follow it up with Kakori Kebab of Aslam and wash it with Raja ki Thandai! Vegetarians may not get disappointed. You have Dixit Chaats for lovely snacks. Starters done, for Biryani head to Aminabad. Better pick up an auto rickshaw to Wahid ki Biryani. Chowk can consume your entire day, of course—beginning before breakfast with ‘makkhan’ and ending long after dinner with paan and Kashmiri chai. You can also check out Kulcha and Nihari in Rahim's. End it with tasty Kulfi in Prakash Kulfi. Thanks to my friends in Lucknow who helped me with this list.

8. Varanasi - Around Vishwanath temple

Baba thandai shop

The serpentine lanes of Varanasi around Vishvanath temple is a treasure trove of vegetarian delicacies. Savour Poori made in Desi ghee and Chole in Ram Bhandar, Drink lassi in Blue Lassi corner, savour the crispy samosa and malpuas in Raj Bandhu, Tikki Chole at Dina Chaat, Crispy Kachoris in Kachori galli, in winters try Nimis at Markandeya, bhang laced thandai at Baba Thandai and of course chai in Kullad and famous Banarasi pan at many stalls along the lanes!

9. Amritsar - Old city and Majithia road

Jalebis being prepared in Gurdas Ram

The streets around the Golden temple is where you get some authentic Punjabi dishes. Eat legendary Punjabi vegetarian meal - authentic Maa di Dhal - cooked in desi ghee in "Kesar da Dabha". If you have finished with dhal in Kesar, then head to "Bharawan Dabha" for that out of the world "Baingan da bartha" Once you finish them, wash it with a big glass of Lasssi at Amrisasr lassiwale near Regent cinema. Though the vegetarian joints are closeby and walkable, if you are looking for Amristari fish and Butter chicken then head to Majithia road and Lawrence road. Take an auto rickshaw and head to Surjit Food Plaza on Lawrence road for that authentic Tandoori Chicken and Chicken Tikka Masala. To Beera's in Majithia road for Tandoori chicken and then walk down to Makhan Fish for that iconic Amrisari Fish.

10. Ahmedabad - Manek chowk

The fare @ Manek chowk

Like Sarafa Bazar in Indore, this is a vegetarian's paradise. Like Sarafa Bazar, the place which is a throbbing jewellery market during the day transforms into a Food bazar with numerous stalls which are set up in the evening. Savour chaats, Pav Bhaji, vegetarian biryanis. Of course there is a host of desserts starting with hot jalebis to Ice golas to Matka kulfis. Gujarati snacks like Fafda, Farsan and hot Jalebis can be savoured in famous Chandra Vilas. For Matka Kulfi head to Bastirams. 

11. Chennai - Mint street

A sweet and savoury shop in Mint street

We never knew about this till another friend in Chennai mentioned about it. Mint street is where you get best Rajasthani food in Chennai. Rajasthani food in Chennai, of all the places? Yes. This is the street where you can savour Gol gappas and Onion Kachoris in Kakada sweets and Maya chaats, hot and crispy Jalebis in Ajab Sweets, Kulfi at Maharaja Kulfi. Hot Badam milk at and the surprise -Murukku Sandwich at Murugan Sandwich!

12 Pondicherry - French Colony

La Maison Rose

We started with Bengaluru and we will end the list with another favourite of ours. French colony in Pondy is a gourmet and walker's delight. The cuisine here is French, continenetal or Creole. So many restaurants around and easy to walk. This is one place where one can spend days exploring the eateries. Coming to brass-tacks and since all the places are close by here is our list

• Le Club, Rue Dumas 
• Satsanga on Labourdanais Street
• La Terrase on Subbaiah Street 
• Randezvous
• La Plancha, Rue Romain Rolland
• La Maison Rose
• Umami
• Cafe Ole
• Roof top restaurant facing the sea on The Promenade hotel
• And lastly Appachi, the best Chettinad meals served on Plantain leaves

Incidentally we have been to all these streets except for Chowk in Lucknow, Muhammed Ali in Mumbai and Mint Street in Chennai. There may be still some more like the ones in Darjeeling or Gangtok or Madurai or Mangalore or Pushkar. You are most welcome to add to the list. We would love to explore them.

If you love to explore local food like we do, then you should look at the following posts in this blog.

A Checklist for Gourmets on Travel in India

Food Safari - All posts related to Food

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Monday Medley - Kashmiri chai and Buttered buns!

Monday Medley - A potpourri of interesting experiences, articles, posts from fellow bloggers which we liked, books we loved, interesting images of fellow travellers or images from our own portfolio. We hope it will be a good start to the week ahead...... 

When we read about the devastation caused by floods in Kashmir, our hearts went out to those who had lost their lives and whose life has been badly affected. At the same time, it also brought back fond memories of interacting with these fine people known for their courtesy and hospitality.

It was a sunny day when we got down in Srinagar airport on our way to Ladakh last month. We were surprised and asked  Mushtaq our driver why Srinagar was hot and humid? Mushtaq replied that rains were delayed in Kashmir this year which has had resulted in hot and sultry Srinagar.

As we left airport, we started talking about how the tourism season had been and other sundry subjects. Invariably the food was the next topic in our discussion. We spoke about our drinking of "Kashmiri chai" in Lal Chowk on a hartal day in August, last year. Dipping crispy "puffs" in "Kashmiri salt tea" and eating them was a delicious experience.

"So, you like Kashmir salt tea?" Asked Mushtaq.

"Yes"

"Ok, i will take you to a good place where you can savour the chai."

He turned the car towards tourism reception centre. In front of that is the taxi stand. Inside the taxi stand, Mushtaq led us to the "Chai shop". It looked like a popular place for everyone who wished to savour tea and exchange words. Few men were sitting on the bench talking in Kashmiri and sipping the chai.

Courtesies exchanged, the chaiwallah asked whether we want normal chai or Kashmiri chai. Kashmiri we replied. He prepared three cups of tea. Pink in colour and salty in taste. As we took the glass of tea, we saw him giving out Kashmir bun smeared with butter.

Ready to sip! 

Preparing buttered bun

We also ordered three buns with butter. Dipping that in the chai and eating was just what was ordered for a hungry stomach which was starving since morning.

If you go to Srinagar, one of the "must experience" is to sip the "Kashmiri Chai" along with butter smeared buns.

We have not been able to speak to Mushtaq ever since the floods affected the city of Srinagar. We are sure that the "Chai shop" would have flooded too. We hope and pray Mushtaq and the "Chaiwallah" are safe and once the things settle down, chaiwallah will start his shop once again.

Till then, the taste of Kashmiri Chai will linger on.

For other Gourmet experiences on our travel, please check this link in this blog

Food Safari

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Food Safari - Buttering lessons in Davanagere!

It is a known fact that Indians are fond of eating and India is a gourmet's paradise. The interesting aspect of Indian culinary diversity is the cuisine changes every 100 Kms or sometimes even every 50 Kms. Another curious aspect of India is that many dishes are associated with the place they come from. Thus we have Mysore pak, Dharwad peda, Machilipattinam laddu, Tirunelvelli halwa, Chettinad Chicken, Lonavala chikki, Bikaneri Bhujia, Banarasi pan and so on.

To that you add "Davanagere Benne Dose (pronounced as "dhosay")" or " Davanagere Butter Dosa".

This is unique. This is not a typical Masala dosa or neither is it a plain dosa. It is a combination of two. Let us explain. 

We are sworn gourmets savouring local food wherever we travel. Davanagere in Central Karnataka in South India has been our breakfast pit stop for a long time whenever we drive on NH4. Our regular adda is Sri Guru Kottureshwara benne dose hotel opposite the dental college. It is easy to reach from highway. Plenty of parking and plenty to eat!

You have only two items on the menu here. "Benne Dose" and "Khali Dose". Benne dose is slightly larger and has more butter than its smaller cousin and less buttered Khali dose! Our favourite has always been Benne Dose. A "Plate" of it means a pair. If you want only one, you have to order "Single".

These dosas are celebration of Benne or butter. This is the celebration of gluttony. Forget your dieting and indulge in the bliss of savouring crispy dosa with spicy "palya" and "chutney".

The benne dosa in Davangere is made on large "tavas" or "cooking plate" heated up by firewood. Yes, it is firewood which is still used in these places to cook dosa. The dosa batter is poured on the tava and then comes the fun. Dollops of butter is now thrown over it. Literally. The butter slowly melt merging into the batter. The batter now gets cooked. Crispy on one side and soft on the other side. It is now turned over and some more butter is thrown over it! Benne Dosa is ready now. Slightly thicker, crispy. The honey comb structure is visible when you open it. 

When we clicked this, they were preparing Khali dosa. 

Cooked over wood fire

Hot Khali dosa with palya and chutney

Ready to serve khali dosa

It is served with "Palya and Chutney". The palya is made of potato and onion mixed with ground green chillies. We are not sure of the recipe. It is not the same alu masala you find in Masala dosas served elsewhere. There is no seasoning for palya like in regular masala dosa. We think that boiled alu (potato) is mashed to which stir fried onion and grated chilli is added and mixed. The chutney is again simple. The chutney here is boiled, not fried with a tempering as is typical. It’s a simple mix of coconut, green chillies, salt, and just a pinch of cardamom.

When we went to Goa and Sirsi recently, we stopped over at this place for our breakfast. As usual we ordered a plate and the aroma lasted till we reached the destination!

A plate of Davanagere Benne Dosa

We saw this nice video on Youtube which will show how the Benne Dose is prepared in Davangere style. Just notice the amount of Benne or butter that is thrown on the dosa! Looks like it is the same place. Not sure.

Davanagere Benne Dose

Next time when you are driving on NH 4, take time to stop over at Davanagere to indulge in Benne Dose. Make sure you don't land up between 1 PM and 4 PM when the hotel will be closed.

Here is the Google map link for the hotel.

http://goo.gl/maps/Ue3Bg

Glossary 

Dose/Dosa - An Indian pancake made of rice and Lentil
Palya - A spicy potato dish generally served as an accompaniment
Chutney - A gravy made of coconut and chilly ground into fine paste
NH - National Highway
Benne - Butter
Alu - Potato

If you are a foodie like us, you may love to see the following posts

Food streets of Indore

A Check list for gourmet's on travel in India

In search of Suleimani chai

Momos in Mirik

Bhopali breakfast

Bahadura laddu and ghevar of Gwalior

For other posts in "Food Safari" series please click here.

Food Safari

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Food Safari - Bahadura Laddu and Ghevar of Gwalior

We visited Gwalior in August 2006. It was the month of Shravan. The Teej festival was round the corner and the sweet shops were selling a delicate sweet which looked like thick papad from a distance. 

Curious as ever, we asked as to what it was and we were told that it was "Ghevar", a sweet made for Teej and Raksha Bandhan. It was yummy and we relished it thoroughly. Bansal Petha Bhandar in Gwalior is a famous shop known for Petha, a sweet made out of ash gourd. But during the month of Shravan, the shop makes delicately tasteful ghevar which is made of ghee, maida and jaggery.

Our gourmet curiosity meant that we explore the other culinary treats of Gwalior. Normally, the first thing we always do when we arrive at a place is to ask locals about local delicacy, the best restaurant and sweet shop in the city. We did the same here too and our next stop  at "Bahadura Sweets" famous for its "Bahadura Laddus" named after the late Bahadur Prasad Sharma the founder of the sweet shop. 

An iconic shop founded 80 years ago, the laddus are made out of boondi which is cooked on coal. Tiny drops of chick pea batter drop into the hot ghee and are taken out with a large perforated spoon, called jhara,when fully fried. The boondi is then immersed in sugar syrup and later rolled into laddus. It should be eaten hot and in the shop.

After eating the laddus don't miss savouring crispy kachoris with tangy chutney in Bahadura Sweets. It is yummy!

Gwalior like other cities in Madhya Pradesh is a gourmet paradise. Whether it is Suleiman chai with Kebab buns in Bhopal or Dahi Vada and Ghamandi Lassi in Indore, Bhang laced Thandai in Ujjain, Kachoris in Rau near Indore, Jalebis in Jabalpur you love travelling in Madhya Pradesh if you love local cuisine.

Next time when you visit Gwalior and finish visiting the magnificent fort, dont forget to have a feast at these sweet shops. Forget dieting while in Gwalior!

If you are a gourmet like us, don't miss reading the following posts in this blog.

Back of the blog - A Checklist for Gourmets on travel in India

Food Streets of Indore

In search of Suleimani chai in Bhopal

Momos in Mirik!

Food Safari in India

Glossary 

Shravan - The month in Hindu calendar in which many festivals occur. Generally in the month of Augsust.

Teej Festival - A Hindu festival. It is observed by women for wellness of their husband.

Raksha Bandhan - A Hindu festival. It is observed by women for wellness of their brothers.

Laddu - A ball-shaped sweet made of flour and sugar with other ingredients that vary by recipe.

Kachori - A spicy and fried snack popular in North India and pakistan. Eaten with or without chutney

Chai - Indian tea

Dahi Vada - Lentil Fritters dipped in Yogurt & smeared with spices

Lassi - Sweet Yogurt, Indian style!

Bhang - A preparation from the leaves and flowers (buds) of the female cannabis plant, consumed as a beverage in the Indian Subcontinent.

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Food Safari - Momos in Mirik!

It was a chilly and cloudy morning when we reached Mirik. Having left Siliguri early in the morning after sipping a cup of tea, we were hungry when we reached this cute little hill station on the way to Darjeeling. A row of stalls selling hot momos, noodles etc beckoned us.

We are not really fond of momos. Poorna keep saying that it is nothing but a version of our own recipe "Kucchida Kadabu". Since we always believe in eating local cuisine on our travel, we decided to try out Momos for breakfast. 

The steaming momos were inviting and Gurkha lady manning the stall invited us to taste the hot momos. Being veggies, we asked her to give us a plate of veg momos. One bite and we fell in love with it. Hot momos with red chilli chutney was yummy. It had never tasted better. These were definitely better than the ones we had tasted in some of the famed restaurants in Bangalore. After eating to our hearts full, we watered down by a hot cup of tea. 

Brinda with a plate of Momos

Then there were big ones as well. We asked the lady what was that. She said that it is the large size momo. This is the standard breakfast in the hills.

Savour these momos when you to Darjeeling or Mirik or Gangtok. They are better than the ones served in the famed restaurants in our cities!

If you love local food while travelling, you should not miss out this series in this blog. Please click here to go on a Food safari......

Food Safari

Food Streets of Indore

In search of Suleimani Chai......

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Food Safari - In search of "Dharwad Pedha"

Have you heard of Dharwad Pedha?

If you haven't, then you are missing something.

If you had heard about it but not eaten, then it is a crime!

If you have sweet tooth like us, it is sinful not to have travelled to Dharwad in search of this delicacy.

While we were on one the numerous road trips, we took a detour from the highway to enter the lovely town of Dharwad in search of this mouth watering delicacy  It was around 9.30 in the morning and the "Thakur's Pedha" on Line Bazar was yet to be opened. There was already a queue in front of the shop and we were tenth in the line. When our turn came, we picked few packets of fresh "Dharwad Pedha". 

Read all about famous Dharwad Pedha of Line Bazar here in this article published in Hindu.

In search of Dharwad Peda

When you happen to drive past Dharwad next time, take a detour to relish your sweet tooth. But be an early bird, lest you will miss the "Pedha".

Food Safari - In search of Udupi Sambar!

Firstly this should have been titled as "In search of Udupi Huli"......

Nevertheless, this is an interesting article for all food lovers who are in search of traditional cuisine of our country.

Mitra Samaj is an Iconic restaurant in Udupi like Mavalli Tiffin Room (MTR) in Bangalore, India Coffee House in Calcutta or Lakshmi Mishtan Bhandar (LMB) in Jaipur.....

It is also interesting to note that there are different types of "Huli" made based on varied recipes. Read more on this in this article published in "The Hindu" newspaper by clicking the link below.

In search of Udupi Sambar

When you are in Udupi, don't miss visiting Mitra Samaj for its famous "Goli Bajjis". Of course, taste sambar as well......

If you are looking for details on visiting Udupi, you may look at this post in this blog.

Karavali Vistas II - Udupi, Mangalore and Bekal

Food Safari - Bandar Laddu of Machilipatnam

We have a sweet tooth. Who doesn't?

One of the agenda on our plate when we travel is to look for the local cuisine and sweets.

What is travel without savouring the local cuisine? Isn't it?

We hadn't heard of the famous "Bandar Laddu" of Machilipatnam till i read this nice article in Food Safari in "The Hindu".

It is mouth watering. We are now looking for someone going to Machilipatnam to pick some for us!

Click on the link to Read more about it and don't miss to pick up some laddus when you happen to go to Machilipatnam next time.

In search of Bandar Laddu

Food Safari - Bhatkal Biryani

We Indians love Biryani. 

Whether it is Hyderabadi or Chettinad or Calcutta or Ambur or Dindigal etc. I had not heard of Bhatkal Birynai - pardon my ignorance - till i  read this article in "The Hindu". 

This is what Wiki say about "Bhatkal Biryani".

" Bhatkali biryani is a special biryani savoured in all parts of coastal Karnataka and forms an integral part of Navayath cuisine. The Bhatkal's biryani evolved from the Bombay biryani which was further refined to give a distinct color taste and flavour. Bhatkali biryani can be of various kind, which include biryani made from either mutton, fish, chicken, or shrimp. The biryani is quite different from others across India in that the onions are used in larger proportions compared to other regions. The dish is cooked with the meat and onion based sauce being at the bottom of the cooking pot with a layers of rice on top, the rice and meat are mixed before serving. Local spices such as cardamom, cloves and cinnamon are used to get the distinct aroma. Served with Bhatkali kachumber. Bhatkali biryani is one of the most common wedding meals in Bhatkal and surrounding towns like Honavar, Murdeshwar, Manki, Shiroor, Byndoor, Gangolli, Kundapur all the way till Mangalore."

I am not sure whether they also make Bhatkali Veg Biryani for veggies like us to savour.
Nevertheless, enjoy the Food Safari article in "The Hindu" on Bhatkal Biryani here.

In search of Bhatkal Biryani

.........and stop over at Bhatkal for a plate of Biryani when you travel in Coastal Karnataka next time.

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Food Safari - In search of Tirunelveli Halwa

Like "Mysore Pak", "Dharwad Peda", "Belgaum Kunda" and "Pathankot Pallang Thod" another sweet which is popular and known by its town's name is "Tirunelveli Halwa". (Halwa is a very popular Indian dessert)

For anyone with sweet tooth, this is a must have. 

Olympia goes in search of authentic Iruttukadai Halwa in Tirunelveli town. Does she get what she want? Here is a fascinating story on the Halwa in the Sunday Magazine of "The Hindu".

In search of Tirunelveli Halwa

The rush in front of Iruttukadai - The famous Halwa shop in Tirunelveli

Halwa under preparation

We picked up some packets of Halwa when we went to Kanyakumari in October last year. Next time when you go to Kanyakumari, don't forget to stop over to pick up some Halwa from Tirunelveli!!

Food Safari - Mysore Pak

A fortnightly column in "The Hindu" newspaper deals with food and the places that made them famous. 

They can be Mysore Pak or Dharwad Peda or Agra Peta or Ambur Biryani or Kumbakonam degree coffee. These write ups makes interesting reading as they go into detail. Being a regular reader of the newspaper, we always look forward to the column. Food and travel is always complementary!

This one is on Mysore Pak. The city of Mysore is famous for the Palace and this ghee rich sweet.

Read more about Mysore Pak by clicking this link.

In search of Mysore Pak

BTW, we strongly feel that the best and authentic Mysore Pak  - honey comb structure, three different colours when you break a piece - is only from legendary Gundappa hotel in downtown Bangalore. Check out these links on this iconic place in Bangalore.

Pamper that sweet tooth at Gundappa's

Sweets @ Gundappa Hotel

Taste that endures

So, if you have sweet tooth, you know where to head when you are in Bangalore next time.......