Food Safari - Buttering lessons in Davanagere!

It is a known fact that Indians are fond of eating and India is a gourmet's paradise. The interesting aspect of Indian culinary diversity is the cuisine changes every 100 Kms or sometimes even every 50 Kms. Another curious aspect of India is that many dishes are associated with the place they come from. Thus we have Mysore pak, Dharwad peda, Machilipattinam laddu, Tirunelvelli halwa, Chettinad Chicken, Lonavala chikki, Bikaneri Bhujia, Banarasi pan and so on.

To that you add "Davanagere Benne Dose (pronounced as "dhosay")" or " Davanagere Butter Dosa".

This is unique. This is not a typical Masala dosa or neither is it a plain dosa. It is a combination of two. Let us explain. 

We are sworn gourmets savouring local food wherever we travel. Davanagere in Central Karnataka in South India has been our breakfast pit stop for a long time whenever we drive on NH4. Our regular adda is Sri Guru Kottureshwara benne dose hotel opposite the dental college. It is easy to reach from highway. Plenty of parking and plenty to eat!

You have only two items on the menu here. "Benne Dose" and "Khali Dose". Benne dose is slightly larger and has more butter than its smaller cousin and less buttered Khali dose! Our favourite has always been Benne Dose. A "Plate" of it means a pair. If you want only one, you have to order "Single".

These dosas are celebration of Benne or butter. This is the celebration of gluttony. Forget your dieting and indulge in the bliss of savouring crispy dosa with spicy "palya" and "chutney".

The benne dosa in Davangere is made on large "tavas" or "cooking plate" heated up by firewood. Yes, it is firewood which is still used in these places to cook dosa. The dosa batter is poured on the tava and then comes the fun. Dollops of butter is now thrown over it. Literally. The butter slowly melt merging into the batter. The batter now gets cooked. Crispy on one side and soft on the other side. It is now turned over and some more butter is thrown over it! Benne Dosa is ready now. Slightly thicker, crispy. The honey comb structure is visible when you open it. 

When we clicked this, they were preparing Khali dosa. 

Cooked over wood fire

Hot Khali dosa with palya and chutney

Ready to serve khali dosa

It is served with "Palya and Chutney". The palya is made of potato and onion mixed with ground green chillies. We are not sure of the recipe. It is not the same alu masala you find in Masala dosas served elsewhere. There is no seasoning for palya like in regular masala dosa. We think that boiled alu (potato) is mashed to which stir fried onion and grated chilli is added and mixed. The chutney is again simple. The chutney here is boiled, not fried with a tempering as is typical. It’s a simple mix of coconut, green chillies, salt, and just a pinch of cardamom.

When we went to Goa and Sirsi recently, we stopped over at this place for our breakfast. As usual we ordered a plate and the aroma lasted till we reached the destination!

A plate of Davanagere Benne Dosa

We saw this nice video on Youtube which will show how the Benne Dose is prepared in Davangere style. Just notice the amount of Benne or butter that is thrown on the dosa! Looks like it is the same place. Not sure.

Davanagere Benne Dose

Next time when you are driving on NH 4, take time to stop over at Davanagere to indulge in Benne Dose. Make sure you don't land up between 1 PM and 4 PM when the hotel will be closed.

Here is the Google map link for the hotel.

http://goo.gl/maps/Ue3Bg

Glossary 

Dose/Dosa - An Indian pancake made of rice and Lentil
Palya - A spicy potato dish generally served as an accompaniment
Chutney - A gravy made of coconut and chilly ground into fine paste
NH - National Highway
Benne - Butter
Alu - Potato

If you are a foodie like us, you may love to see the following posts

Food streets of Indore

A Check list for gourmet's on travel in India

In search of Suleimani chai

Momos in Mirik

Bhopali breakfast

Bahadura laddu and ghevar of Gwalior

For other posts in "Food Safari" series please click here.

Food Safari

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Skywatch Friday - Palace in the Sky!

When did you last see an Indian mythological on your TV screen?

We all would have seen the scenes of the palace in the sky in them. Those grand sets of Indra's palace floating in the sky with clouds moving around. How would you feel if you are offered a similar sight on the ground?

This is the first impression you get when you are driving from Belgaum towards Bangalore. You come out the hustle bustle of city traffic and enter one of the lovely stretch of highway in the country. You negotiate to the top of a high ground overlooking a fantastic valley of green expanse. Then you take slight left turn and comes the surprise!

You will see a palace kind of a building on a small high ground in the distance. Wow! you exult and you are now eager to come closer and see the palace.

Yes, this is what happened when we were driving back from Goa last week. Monsoon clouds provided a perfect background which made this building float in the sky from a distance.

This is the newest addition to fabulous public buildings in the country. A replica of fantastic "Vidhana Soudha" the assembly hall in Bangalore. This is "Suvarna Soudha", the assembly hall and secretariat of Government of Karnataka for Summer sittings.

We stopped and clicked the pictures of the building. Being a holiday there was no chance for us to go inside.

Here is what we saw. Please click on pictures to see them in original size.

This is how it looks from the distance....in the clouds!

We come closer and click at an angle. We loved the sky and clouds above.

This one shot in front and zoomed. It is just fabulous!

When you drive on this road next time, stop for a minute. take a pause and get awed at this lovely sight.

For other posts in Skywatch series, please click here.

Skywatch Friday series

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Magic of Monsoon drive in western ghats 2 - Awestruck @ Amboli!

We promised you with our memorable return trip from Goa. Here we are.

After a lovely get together on the previous day where we met many roadies and their families as part of HVK Forum, we got up early for the Monsoon drive with the group. This route was chosen with great care by HVK himself to take us through some pristine forests of Western ghats. As luck would have it, we were not destined to join them. There was an emergency at home and we had to rush back.

We had an option to go back on the same route we drove to Goa on the previous day. The other option was to drive through Amboli ghat.

It was five years back when we drove back to Bangalore from Panjim in heavy rains. We then drove through Amboli ghat. That drive was memorable. We had actually driven under the canopy of waterfalls. It had rained heavily in Goa for 36 hours forcing us to stay indoors completely. When we left Goa the next day through Amboli ghat - we did not have luxury of different routes then as other routes were bad - we had not bargained for what was in store. We just could not believe our eyes as we drove in fog under canopy of waterfalls. We can never forget that drive.

Refreshing our memories, we did our return drive through Amboli this time. We kept our fingers crossed as we had left early and Amboli is notorious for landslides and roadblocks. Heavy rain on previous day meant that we were in a treat. We left behind Sawantwadi and entered Amboli ghat.  We entered Amboli ghat to be treated to lush greenery all around. A quietude broken only by the sound of an automobile now and then. 

Rains kept pouring off and on. It was not ferocious like the previous day. It was foggy with sun playing hide and seek. Soon we were to see a spectacle. For next five KMs we were treated by myriad of lovely cascades. Each one different. Each with its own character. We had to stop and frame them in the camera. Every few meters of drive we were awed by a waterfall. The grand finale was reserved for the Amboli falls. The Tallest of all. 

Join us for a drive under the waterfalls. Did we say we were awestruck at Amboli? You can see why. We assure you that you will be left spellbound after this journey!

Click on the pictures to see them in original size.

We enter Amboli ghat! It is green everywhere with a light drizzle 

The complete ghat and valley was foggy. We had to drive real slow. 

A trailer of spectacle to unfold - the first of the waterfalls

Twins.......cascading gently over the rocks 

A canopy of water falls beckons us......

This stretch was lovely. A fall at every five meters!

........and the spectacle continues

........it gets increasingly beautiful

This was a bigger one. It was glorious!

--------Followed by a smaller cousin

........and this one seemed to be in a hurry!

This is how it was. We had to wait for fog to clear to get a better view of the cascades

This one was a beauty. Hidden in the woods and coming out roaring!

.......and this one too....

This was taller and gentle

This was a perfect setting. Canopy of trees, misty on the top, water cascading gently over the rocks. Can it get any better?

The grand finale when the mist lifted!

The tallest and the main falls called simply as Amboli waterfalls

How did you feel? We felt rejuvenated. We would have loved to take a U Turn and drive back to experience the bliss. But we had to go. 

A quick breakfast in the shacks near the main falls, held us in good stead till we reached Bangalore. Thanks to HVK that we were able to make it. We missed lovely drive through Kadra - Dandeli - Joida. But we were adequately compensated by the spectacle in Amboli.

Travel Tips

Route - Panjim - Sawantwadi - Amboli ghat - Belgaum - Bangalore

Road condition - Excellent through out. Stunning landscape through out.

Eateries - There are shacks near Amboli falls who provide basic Breakfast. Hot and nice. There is also a restaurant by Maharashtra tourism if you want more options.

Tips - The ghat gets foggy in the monsoon. Though there is no need for fog lamps, need to drive carefully. The series of water falls can be seen only when it rains heavily in the hills. The main waterfalls will be good till november.

Please check out the first part of the monsoon drive in Western ghats here

Magic of monsoon drive in western ghats 1 - Amazed @ Anmod!

For a complete list of experiencing monsoon in India - drives, waterfalls, places to god, treks etc. - please click on this link below.

Celebrating Indian Monsoon - A List!

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Monday Medley - Monsoon and the Scorpio!

We are naming our Monday posts as "Monday Medley". Yes, this will be a potpourri of interesting articles, posts from fellow bloggers which we liked, interesting images of fellow travellers or images from our own portfolio. We hope it will be a good start to the week. 

We all love our cars. Don't we?

We wanted to profile the mean machine which carries us all around the country. A faithful companion which has taken us to the remote corners of Chhattisgarh, the mountains of Sikkim, the shores of Kushi beach and to the waterfalls in Western ghats and many more. The Scorpio. Incidentally we just completed 125,000 KMs in last three and half years yesterday.

In the last week's monsoon drives to Goa and this week's drive to Sirsi -Yellapur, we clicked the mean machine in different surroundings. Take a look and we hope you like them the same way we did framing it.

Please click on the pictures to see them in original size.

Next to a lovely sun flower field between Birur and Tarikere off highway.

In front of a lovely lake after Soraba, Karnataka

On a  beautiful stretch of road on the way to Gudavi bird sanctuary, Soraba

Inside a green tunnel in Yellapur forests

Soaked in rain. On the way to Unchalli falls, Sirsi

We saw this lovely patch on the way to Unchalli falls. Lucky to take off the road and get this clicked

In Anmod ghat, Karnataka 

In Amboli ghat. On the way to Belgaum from Goa

A bit of off roading in Yellapur forests :-)

BTW the man machine gets ready for another chance to hit the highway this weekend again!

For complete list of celebrating monsoon in India including our drives, water falls, treks, itineraries etc. please click the link below

Celebrating Monsoon in India - A List!

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Skywatch Friday - Monsoon skies in Kashmir

This blog is celebrating Indian monsoon in the last few posts. 

We have written about monsoon magic in the western ghats. How does this magic transform the mountains in North India? In the Himalayas?

We had a first hand experience last year when we went to Kashmir to trek the great lakes. Landing in Srinagar, we had to travel to Sonmarg in a bus. We were a large group taking this trek. Rains had lashed the Kashmir valley in the previous weeks. We were keeping our fingers crossed even as we looked at the overcast sky.

Leaving the narrow roads of Srinagar behind, we headed towards Sonmarg, our camp for the night. A drive for an hour, we are in the middle of rural Kashmir. We parked the bus next to a Dhaba for a tea break. It was bang on the bank of Indus river which was flowing full. Around the river were green fields of paddy. Stretching for miles. Disturbed only by rows of poplar trees.

We walked around the area to feel the fresh air and savour lovely vistas. Here are some pictures. Click on them to see in original size.

Monsoon is a lovely season to visit Kashmir. No crowds. Streams and waterfalls rolling down the hills. Clouds kissing the mountains. Yes, you will not be able to see the snow capped peaks. That will be an excuse to come back again either in autumn or summer.

Because, you will never be tired of Kashmir!

Here is a list for celebrating Indian monsoon in all its glory. Click on the link below.

Celebrating Indian Monsoon - A List!

We invite you to check out the following posts on our Kashmir experience.

Spectacular Srinagar 1 - Floating market on Dal Lake

Spectacular Srinagar 2 - Lullaby on Dal and Nagin lakes!

Spectacular Srinagar 3 - Magnificent Mughal gardens

Yusmarg - the hidden wonder of Kashmir

You may also take a look at other posts under Skywatch series here

Skywatch Friday

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Magic of Monsoon Drive in Western Ghats 1 - Amazed @ Anmod ghat!

We hadn't driven in this monsoon while we were egging everyone to get out and get soaked in the rain. We could only blame it on late arrival of rains. But when you get a chance to be with the legend of Indian road trips for a monsoon drive in Western ghats, you don't miss it. Do you?

When H V Kumar ( Check out this facebook Group page for details H V Kumar - Fan, Forum and Message board) organised a monsoon drive last week we had to say yes. It was a god sent opportunity for us to drive in the monsoon. Being road trippers ourselves, we had to go.

We normally start around 5 AM and there was no difference this time too. Driving early in the morning before anybody hit the road helps you to pick up speed and cover distance quickly. As Kumar always say, cover half the distance to destination before others hit the road! That's what we did and before people could hit the road we were in Davanagere relishing "Benne Dosa" for breakfast!

The sky was overcast throughout and started raining off and on. The road throughout was excellent. A detour at Dharwad took us through one of the picturesque roads to drive on. We were sceptical about this road as we had nightmarish experience few years back. Checking with Kumar in advance helped. He confirmed that the road is excellent and we decided to drive on. What a pleasant surprise it was.

We reached Mollem in Goa and joined others in a convoy. Winding through the roads of rain soaked Goa the convoy of 55 cars arrived at a spectacular place for a break in North Goa.

Join us on this drive in the rain. Get soaked in loveliness of nature!

Click on the pictures to see them in Original size.

Rain drops on the windshield of the car as we hit the highway

The road from Dharwad to Goa via Ramnagar is top class with lush greenery on either side!

We saw this small lake with lotuses in bloom waiting for the rains. 

The railway track to Goa, the one we had trekked last year to Dudhsagar

Rains in forest means clear tarmac and lovely greenery!

Surprised to see terraced farming in this area. Isn't it beautiful?

We crossed a river which was coming to life with bountiful rains.

First waterfalls spotted. Hidden inside the thick foliage!

Fog enveloped as we drove. Rains splattering every now and then.

We had to stop on seeing these series of waterfalls!

Four little waterfalls at their glorious best!

As we drove on, we saw another one!

Soaking in the rain!

We stopped again on seeing this. A stream gently hurtling down the rocks!

Some more rain, this spot will be wonderful.

We join the convoy at Mollem

We wind through the roads of Goa soaked in rain!

A Portuguese bungalow in Goa. We loved the contrast in this picture.

We reach this spectacular hillock with painted rocks in Vagator

Cars parked in the open area at the foothill

Time for a hot samosa and chai in the rain!

Panoramic view of Vagator beach from the top of the hill

A small cross installed atop the hill

On the hill, in the rain.

It was a pleasurable drive and amazing vistas on the way. A drive where every minute was memorable. 

The route - Bangalore - Tumkur - Chitradurga - Haveri - Hubli - Dharwad - Ramnagar - Anmod - Mollem

Road condition - Excellent through out. A small rough patch in Anmod ghat. No worries.

Eating places on the way - Enjoy Benne Dosa at Kottureshwara in Davanagere. 

Loo breaks - Cafe coffee day at Dabaspet and Haveri, Kamat outlets at Dabaspet, Sira, Hubli 

Wait. The fun is not yet over. Look out for next part of our return drive to Bangalore through canopy of waterfalls in Amboli ghat. 

Till then make plan to go out this monsoon. Here is a list to help you. Everything you wanted to explore and enjoy rain - drives, itinerary, places, waterfalls, monsoon treks.......

Celebrating Indian Monsoon - A List!

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If you need help, please write to us by using the contact form on the side bar. Happy to help.