Ladakh Diaries 9 - Stunning Nubra Valley!

After a fascinating drive to the White lake or Tso Kar on the previous day ( Please click on this link to read about it here Ladakh Diaries 8 - Tso Kar, "The White Lake" @ 15,000 feet) we were ready to leave for Khardung La and beyond - To Nubra valley.

The drives in Ladakh are the spellbinding part of travel to this magnificent region. Every drive is special. Every drive has something special. Every time you drive in Ladakh you will will end up with some surprises. This was true during this drive as well.

Nowang, our friendly driver was ready at the Army officers' mess in Nimmu at 7.30 AM. An early fauji breakfast of Poori and Alu Baji with Egg bujia made us ready for the long drive. The sun was up and bright. The sky was clear too with few clouds. Driving along Indus river, we crossed Leh town and turned towards Khardungla. This was our second drive to the highest motorable pass in the world. First thing which surprised us was the lovely tarmac compared to the one we drove on four years ago. Except for a small patch after South Pullu, the road was fantastic. The harsh summer of Ladakh in August meant that there would not be much snow along the way. Still the vistas were lovely. Hop in and let us drive along............... (please click on the pictures to see them in original size)

Shanti Stupa glowing in morning sun light as we climb...

A monastery perched on top of a hillock

The lovely newly laid winding road to Khardungla

A Panoramic view of the valley blow as we start our climb

The view of the Stok Kangri range of Ladakh. Notice lack of snow on the mountains.

First view of a small glacier.

The winding road brought us to KT or Khardungla Top as it is known locally. We were in for a disappointment. There wasn't any snow whatsoever. Our memories went back four years ago when the pass was full of snow. Still the ecstasy of standing on the highest motorable pass of the world was worth all the trouble of driving up 6000 feet in 2 hours. The saving grace were the few snow covered peaks around the pass providing a lovely backdrop.

Tricolour flying high on the summit

Few snow covered peaks around Khardung La Top .....

Savouring black tea at K Top. Notice absence of snow around the place. But it was chilly and windy though.

A quick cup of black chai in the small shop run by Ladakh Scouts, we were back on the road. We had not been to Nubra during our last trip to Ladakh. Naturally we were excited. As we descended, the first few KMs from Khardungla Top was narrow and under construction. Once we crossed this stretch, it was a bliss of a drive! The road was awesome. The sights were spectacular. We seems to have started where we had left on the previous day. The undulating valleys were surrounded by lofty mountain peaks. Tiny hamlets along the way were conspicuous of their green fields contrasting with surrounding brown landscape. Deep gorges and ravines weathered down by winds. Shyok river flowing gently........We are now in stunning Nubra valley!

Stunning earth formations on the way to Hunder

The ravines were spectacular too.....

Then the stunning colours......

And some natural wonders!!!

Then there were Yaks feeding n wild grass

Monotony of brown disturbed by lovely green......

The valley view only got better as we drove on......

The vastness was mind blowing.....

The formations are stunning.....

------with snow caped peaks peeping out like an icing on the cake!

Then we also saw these mud fortresses!!

A small little lake with the statue of Buddha in the middle

Small villages with stunning views...

And quiet flows Shyok.....

We now turn right from the highway towards Diskit and Hunder. The landscape dramatically changes and how!

First sight of Diskit Monastery

.......and first sight of Avalokiteshwara....

How was the drive? Hope you enjoyed it as much as we did. 

It was breathtakingly beautiful. We loved every minute of it. We reached Diskit Monastery, one of the largest in Ladakh. A visit to the monastery, exploring the sands of Hunder and customary ride on Bactrian camel was next on the agenda. 

Travel Tips

a) The road from Leh to Nubra valley is in good condition except for few KMs before Khardungla Top and immediately when you start descending from it.

b) Good roads has its own drawback. We saw dangerously rash driving by the cab drivers. Make sure you tell your driver in uncertain terms to drive safe.

c) If you leave Leh in the morning, you can comfortably reach Hunder by evening after visiting Diskit monastery. You can have lunch in Khalsar. We tried Tukpa, the Tibetan noodle soup in one of the restaurant and it was tasty.

d) Make sure you stop and savour the magnificent vistas on the way. 

e) We were in august and it was hot and there was no snow in Khardung La Top.  A week later weather changed and people were stuck in blizzard! The weather in mountains is always unpredictable. Be prepared for it.

f) Don't stay for more than 15 minutes in Khardung La Top. Do not over exert yourself by running etc. 

g) Ladakh scout has a nice store for memorabilia. Pick out something for the keepsake.

This is the ninth post in "Ladakh Diaries" series in this blog. If you want to explore earlier posts  on our experiences in Ladakh please click the link below. Once you complete reading each post please click "older posts" at the end of the page which will take you to previous posts in the series.

Ladakh Diaries - Our experiences in Ladakh

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Ladakh Diaries 4 - To Khardung La, highest motorable road in the world!

After a hectic gompa hopping in Leh – similar to beach hopping in Goa and pandal hopping during Durga pooja in Calcutta - we were getting ready for the journey of our life to the highest motorable pass in the world – Khardung La ( La in Tibetan means “Mountain pass”). Zigmet – our driver – was to come at 8 AM and we were ready after a quick breakfast of cereal and omelet.

The road to Khardung La is a steep climb. It is a short distance from Leh and the climb is steep when you go from 11,000 feet to 18,500 feet. The road is excellent as the Border roads organisation maintains this diligently. Khardung La is an important army base as the troops and supplies to Siachin is routed through this pass.

A steady climb over winding road gave us a panoramic view of Leh town below with Stok Kangri peak in the background. A stream had created lush green fields with houses around it. An isolated gompa on a small hill provided an enchanting picture as we climbed up.

Stok Kangri - Tallest peak in Ladakh - basking in morning light

A green valley amidst dry and barren terrain

Start of the climb to Kardung La

A Gompa perched on a small hillock

The road condition started to worsen and the last few KMs were really bad. We asked the border roads team about this and they said that this stretch was avalanche prone during winter! We could see tonnes of snow on either side of the road and could well imagine the scene during winter!

First glimpse of the snow clad peaks

Tough roads - The Avalanche prone area

Panoramic views of mountains

Snow clad valleys

As we came closer to the pass, the dark brown terrain suddenly gave way to a mix and match of snow and brown. On reaching Khardung La, it was white all around.......all we could see around us was snow!

Hurray! We were on top of the world! On the highest motorable road in the world!

We could not stay there for more than 10 minutes. It was windy too. n fact there is a signage cautioning visitors not to stay for more than ten minutes and not to exert too much. The rarified atmosphere really hits you hard. You feel tired after few steps. Hats off to the armed forces guys who not only stay here but also work in these hostile environs. The road from Khardung La descends into Nubra valley, which we could not visit. Nubra is supposed to be the place where you find beautiful sand dunes and two humped camels. It is also called as “Valley of flowers”. Possibly we will do that in next visit.

Hurray!! On top of the world!

The drive though short provided us the glimpse what mountaineers undergo when they climb those heights. Snow, wind, lack of oxygen makes life miserable at these heights. The drive back was again comfortable and we were in Leh by afternoon. The time after lunch was spent going around the antique shops hunting for some Tibetan masks, Tangkhas. We were back in the hotel in the evening.

We are no excited with next place of visit. We are to go to Pangong Tso – the largest brackish lake in Asia – made more popular after it was shot beautifully in the climax scenes of the Hindi Blockbuster “ 3 Idiots”. Zigmet asked us to be ready at sunrise to travel to the beautiful lake. 

We can't wait to go there.

Getting there

Khardung La can be reached comfortably from Leh by Jeep. It is also an easy ride by Bike which can be hired in Leh.

Other Information

a) Don't stay for more than ten minutes on the top. You can actually feel getting exhausted.

b) Don't play around with snow and exert physically. AMS may hit you badly.

c) Ladakh Scouts - An army unit - has a nice store selling memorabilia. Pick one if you wish to.

d) Generally Khardung La is a planned as a transit to go to Nubra which actually makes sense. Visitors normally spends a night or two in Nubra and then return to Leh.

Glossary

Gompa - Buddhist monastery

Pandal - A covered area

Durga Pooja - A festival involving worship of Goddess Durga

Siachin - A place in Ladakh Himalayas where Indian army has base. It is the highest battleground in the world.

This is the Fourth post in "Ladakh Diaries" series of nine posts in this blog. If you want to explore earlier/later posts - click on the link in this series, please click this link below. Clicking "older posts" at the end of the page will take you to previous posts in the series.

Ladakh Diaries - Our experiences in Ladakh

Useful links

Wiki on Khardung La

Wiki on Nubra VAlley

Did you like this post?  Do you need help in planning a trip to Leh and Ladakh? You are welcome to write to me at poorna62@gmail.com.

Happy to help.