Monsoon Magic II - Alekan falls

We happened to drive around Charmadi Ghat - the road which connects Mangalore to Chikmagalur - over the last weekend.

It was lovely drive with mist, waterfalls and excellent road. In fact we found the outstanding Alekan waterfalls as the mist cleared for a few minutes. We had missed this out last time.

This is a stream in full flow. You encounter it early. It is just before you start climbing. It is approximately four KMs from Kottigehara. This stream forms a lovely waterfalls on the other side of the road. The Alekan falls may not be visible if it is misty. If you are lucky like us, you will be rewarded with a fabulous sight.

Then you have green walls like these below.......

.........and smaller falls to give you company.....

........in green and misty surroundings....

You can enjoy the panoramic views of Malnad in monsoon.....bit of mist, water bodies, all shades of green.....

..........While driving on surprisingly good roads....

Drive around in Malnad this monsoon and come back rejuvenated!

For experiencing Monsoon in Malnad, please look at the following posts in this blog.

Monsoon experience in Western Ghats - An itinerary

Monsoon drive in Malnad - Chikmagalur, Agumbe & Tirthahalli

Monsoon drive in Western ghats

Getting mesmerised in Monsoon

Driving Holidays from Bangalore - Enchanting Uttara Kannada

Driving Holidays from Bangalore - Karavali and Koffee kombo

If you need any help in planning a trip to Malnad, you can write at poorna62@gmail.com

Happy to help.

Monsoon Magic

Monsoon in Malnad is fun. Of course, if you like the rains..........

Driving through the mist filled roads with droplets of water splashing on your windscreen is an experience. It is green everywhere. The rivulets and streams are full. Small water falls cascade from the hill sides all along the drive........

We were driving through Malnad last week and here are three pictures which should encourage to hit the road and drive in Western ghats.

If you are planning to experience Monsoon in Western Ghats, you can look at the following posts in this blog which may be helpful.

Monsoon Magic in Malnad - An itinerary to experience it

Mesmerised in Malnad in Monsoon!

Monsoon drive in western Ghats

Sakleshpur - Getting mesmerised in Monsoon!

Driving Holidays from Bangalore - Enchanting Uttara Kannada

Driving Holidays from Bangalore - Karavali and Koffee combo!!

Monsoon in Western Ghats in India - An Itinerary to experience it!

Come June and it is time for Indian Monsoons. This is also the best time to see Western ghats and experience rain especially in the Malnad region of Thirthahalli in Karnataka. It is still unexplored and receives the second highest rainfall in India. This is THE place for someone who wants to experience Indian monsoons in full glory.

We would recommend you to make Thirthahalli as base (Thirthahalli) - it is centrally located and has good stay options - and you can comfortably plan for four to five days of outing. It is a sleepy little town in rural Karnataka. Thirthahalli and its surroundings is also an area which receives heavy rain fall.

Having been to Thirthahalli and surroundings many times, here is a recommended itinerary. Of course, this region can be visited throughout the year if you don't want to get wet in the torrential rain! The season between October to March is the best when there is a nip in the air, mist on the mountains and a chance to see glorious sunrises and sunsets.

This itinerary is basically for a road trip from Bangalore. If you don't intend to drive, don't worry. You have an excellent option of taking a night train from Bangalore to Shimoga and ask your host to arrange for a pick up at Shimoga railway station. Shimoga to Thirthahalli is a beautiful and picturesque drive of an hour. If you are a person who loves bus journeys, you have option to catch a direct night bus from Bangalore to Tirthahalli.

A complete list to experience and enjoy monsoon in India can be read by clicking this link - Celebrating Indian Monsoon - A List!

Here is the itinerary. Hope you come back soaked with myriad experiences of monsoon!

Day 1 - Bangalore - Thirthahalli

Total Distance - 339 KMs

Route Map - Bangalore - Tirthahalli

• Leave Bangalore in the morning and reach Thirthahalli for Lunch. 
• It is a comfortable six hours drive. 
• Have breakfast enroute either at Tiptur (Kamat Restaurant) or Arsikere (Raghavendra Lodge) or Kadur (Vinayaka Cafe) or Birur (Preethi Canteen for best Butter Masala Dosa). 
• On the way visit Amritapura - five KMs from Tarikere - for its famous Hoysala temple. 
• In the evening go around Thirthahalli town, visit Bheemanakatte for a quiet evening by Tunga river. 

Lovely sand banks on Tunga river in Bheemanakatte

Useful links

Amritapura - Amrutesvara Temple, Amruthapura on Wikipedia

Day 2 - Tirthahalli - Kundadri - Agumbe - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 80 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Kundadri - Agumbe - Tirthahalli

• Experience the fury of rain and wind on Kundadri - A Small hillock on the way to Agumbe. You can drive up the hill and enjoy panoramic view. You may take a look at Kundadri pictures in our post on Monsoon drive here. 
• Monsoon drive in Malnad - Countless Waterfalls and Visual bliss!
• Visit Agumbe Rainforest research station and learn about King Cobra and wildlife in Western Ghats 
• Enjoy the cascades of Jogi gundi and Koodlu Theertha waterfalls 
• Walk on the streets where Swami and his friends walked in Malgudi Days! 
• Return back to Tirthahalli in evening. 
• You may not be able to see beautiful sunset at Agumbe during monsoons which is possible in winters and summer 

Monsoon sky as seen from Kundadri hill

Useful links

More Kundadri pics - Magical morning at Kundadri Betta by Deepsan

Agumbe - Agumbe on Wikipedia

Agumbe Rainforest research station - Agumbe Rainforest Research Station

Malgudi Days - Malgudi_Days

Day 3 - Thirthahalli - Sringeri - Horanadu - Kuppali - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 185 KMs

Route map - Tirthahalli - Sringeri - Horanadu - Tirthahalli

• A beautiful drive. 
• Have early breakfast in the place of your stay or better have a good South Indian breakfast at Sringeri. Visit historical temple of Goddess Sharada. 
• Walk over the bridge on Tunga river and visit Shankaracharya's Ashram - don't miss seeing Award winning architecture of Sanskrit Pathashala. 
• Drive to Horanadu. Visit the famous temple of Goddess Annapoorneshwari at the foothills of mountains 
• Have lunch in temple. 
• After lunch drive back to Tirthahalli and on the way after Koppa, visit the beautifully restored heritage house of great Kannada poet KUVEMPU as a memorial for him at Kuppali - good signage is there. Trek to "Kavi Shyla" a small hill - ten minutes trek - adjoining to the memorial to see "Stonehenge" kind of structure done by well known artist K T Shivaprasad. 
• Enjoy the beautiful view of Sahyadris from the top. 
• Return back to Tirthahalli 

Heritage home of Poet Laureate Kuvempu in Kuppalli

Useful links

Kuppali - Kuppalli on Wikipedia

KUVEMPU - Kuvempu

Sringeri - Shringeri on Wikipedia

Day 4 - Thirthahalli - Kollur - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 167 KMs

Route map - Tirthahalli - Kollur - Tirthahalli

• After early breakfast drive to Kollur. 
• Enjoy the beautiful drive through mountains/valleys 
• Visit temple dedicated to Goddess Mookambika. 
• Return to Tirthahalli for late lunch 

Valley views on the way to Kollur

Day 5 - Tirthahalli - Kavaledurga - Mani Dam - Nagara Fort - Tirthahalli

Total distance - 114 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Kavaledurga - Mani Dam - Nagara Fort - Tirthahalli

• Kavaledurga is a hillock fort close to Tirthahalli with amazing views of Mani dam backwaters and valleys. 
• After breakfast head towards Kavaledurga. 
• Climb the the hill fort - it has steps - enjoy the views. 
• Drive to Nagara fort 
• Drive to Mani dam on the way back and view beautiful backwaters formed by the dam. 
• Return to Tirthahalli for late lunch. 
• After lunch and rest visit Chippalagudde, a picnic spot on Tunga river 

Nagar fort looks beautiful in Monsoon

Useful links

KavaleDurga - The Voice of Greenery: Kavaledurga

                        YouTube Video on Kavaledurga

Mani Dam - The Voice of Greenery: Kavaledurga

Nagara Fort  - YouTube video on Nagara fort

Day 6 - Tirthahalli - Kodachadri - Tirthahalli

Total distance - 138 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Kodachadri

• Trekking of Kodachadri in Monsoons is only for experienced trekkers. 
• Also visit beautiful Hittalamane falls at the foot hills. 
• In non monsoon season, one can enjoy amazing sunset from this peak. 

Sunrise @ Kodachadri

Useful links

Kodachadri - The Voice of Greenery: kodachadri

Day 7 - Thirthahalli - Mandagadde bird sanctuary - Sakrebailu elephant camp - Gajanur dam - Tyavarekoppa Lion safari - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 140 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Shimoga - Tirthahalli

• This can be done as a comfortable day trip. This trip is specially for Kids who will enjoy bathing elephants and seeing lions and tigers at close quarters. 
• Leave early with packed breakfast. 
• Visit Sakrebailu elephant camp. Watch how the mahouts bathe and train elephants. Allow kids to play with some baby elephants including bathing them 
• After breakfast, drive to Tyavarekoppa lion safari which is ten KMs from Shimoga. On the way stopover at Gajanur dam to enjoy beautiful vistas of backwaters of Tunga river 
• Enjoy lion safari and have lunch in Shimoga. Visit Shivappa Nayaka's palace in city. 
• Drive back to Tirthahalli. 
• Stop over at Mandagadde bird sanctuary on the way for some bird watching. 

A baby elephant enjoying bath in the camp!

Useful links

Mandagadde - Mandagadde Images

Sakrebailu - Sakrebailu Images

Day 8 - Thirthahalli - Sagara - Jog falls - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 220 KMs

Route map - Tirthahalli - Jog Falls - Tirthahalli

• After breakfast drive to Jog falls, the tallest waterfalls in Asia 
• On the way back visit famous temple at Ikkeri on the outskirts of Sagara. 
• Have lunch in Sagara. 
• Return to Tirthahalli 

Jog falls in full glory

Useful links

Jog Falls 

          Wiki - Jog Falls

          Google Images - Jog Falls

Ikkeri - Aghoreshvara Temple @ Ikkeri

Day 9 - Return to Bangalore after Breakfast

If you want to extend your trip after experiencing monsoon, here are some interesting Deviations

• If one wants to visit Udupi, then they can deviate from Agumbe or Kollur.
• If one wants to Murdeshwar and beyond, one can do so after Jog falls. Also there is a nice trek of Kanur fort from Jog falls for which one has to stay near Jog falls.

Travel Tips

• Tirthahalli and surroundings experience heavy rainfall during monsoon. Take proper rain gear. 
• Make sure your car is in good condition. Check condition of tyres. 
• Always check locally for latest road condition. Your host will be of help. 
• You can hire a car at Tirthahalli for doing trips. 
• Plan your itinerary based on number of days you can spare. 
• While trekking or walking in monsoon, you may suffer leech bite. Don't worry. It is a minor hiccup. 

Stay Options

There are good home stays in and around Tirthahalli which provide nice accommodation with excellent meals. We have stayed at Bananki (http://www.banankihomestay.com/) and the Malnad cuisine served by them is awesome. A very good home stay.

For more stay options, you may visit Travelmalnad which lists home stays in Tirthahalli.

Glossary

Malnad - Is a shortened form of "Maley Nadu" meaning the region with rainfall. "Maley" in Kannada Language means Rain

Western ghats - Mountain ranges in peninsular India. A UNESCO World heritage site.

Hoysala - Medieval dynasty who ruled vast parts of South India. Famous for building artistically brilliant temples.

Malgudi Days - Iconic Indian television serial

Ashram - Monastery

Pathshala - School

Sahyadri - Another name for Western Ghats

Mahout - Elephant trainer

We request you to join the lovely drives we have done in Western Ghats during monsoon by clicking on the links below.

Monsoon Drive in Malnad - Countless Waterfalls and Visual Bliss!

Sakleshpur - Mesmerised in Monsoon!

Chikmagalur - A monsoon drive in Western Ghats!

If you are looking for a Driving Holiday from Bangalore to explore Monsoon in Malnad (Western ghats) , please click here

Driving Holidays from Bangalore 2 - Magical Malnad!

Did you like this post?  Do you need help in planning a trip to Tirthahalli and Malnad to experience Indian Monsoon? You are welcome to write to poorna62@gmail.com. 

Happy to help 

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Malnad Musings - A sojourn in Western ghats

“Where are you going next week?” Praveen asked as we sipped Coffee in the break out area. “Is it a long weekend?” I questioned. “Yeah, 24 Aug is a holiday. I am going to Pondy….Haven't you planned anything?” 

This question set in motion for our next “long weekend” trip. The planning part of any trip is exciting as well as tiring. We had done most places around. “Where next” I asked my wife. As we started googling, an idea stuck. Why not “Malnad in monsoons”? she said. We hit upon going to Tirthahalli in Malnad region of Karnataka. Malenadu or Malnad in Kannada means “Hilly region” of Western Ghats comprising of Shivamogga, Chikkamagalur and Coorg districts.

There were some challenges before we could embark on this plan. First was the road condition to Shivamogga and then on to Tirthahalli. We had a harrowing experience driving on this road two years back from Goa. We became adventurous and drove via Karwar, visiting Jog falls on the way. But the road from Shivamogga to Kadur (a distance of 50 KMs) was sheer misery. My fiesta had a torrid time negotiating craters and it took us two hours to cover this stretch. We wanted to be doubly sure about road. Once confirmed good, heaved a sigh of relief and moved to next challenge. Where do we stay?

Shivamogga district has fabulous flora, fauna, hills, water falls, heritage…….you name it and it has. But it does not have many good places to stay. Tourism has not picked up in the region and road conditions discouraged visitors. Googling and talking to some friends helped us decide to stay in Tirthahalli to explore Malnad. This led us to BANANKI HOMESTAY ( http://www.banankihomestay.com/ ). Having confirmed accommodation, we were raring to go.

The road till Tumkur is excellent. After Tumkur we branched out on NH 206. The road was surprisingly good with hardly any traffic. The recent rains had turned the parched lands in Tumkur district green. We spotted a cute little church – looked like built by British – in Gubbi town. Lo and behold! We were in Shivamogga at 12.30 Noon having covered a distance of 280 KMs in 4.30 Hours with a break of fifteen minutes for eating idlis! The drive from Shivamogga to Tirthahalli was fabulous as we entered the “Male nadu”. Driving through green expanse on the winding road through picturesque "Shetty Halli Wild Life Sanctuary" with small ponds with lilies on the sides made it a pleasure. 

Streams galore in Western ghats

The green canopy!

Mandagadde Bird sanctuary

The next fifty KMs drive to Bananki was smooth. We stopped to look at the egrets at Mandagadde Bird Sanctuary on the way. When we reached Bananki, it was 2 PM. Rachan and Arpita – the young couple whose home it is – were there to receive us. This is a sprawling bungalow amidst a plantation with well kept garden around. The old bungalow has been renovated by the couple. They provide three rooms inside the bungalow and have built two small cottages as well. The lunch – traditional Malnad vegetarian cuisine as we are veg – was god sent. It was just the beginning of our wonderful gastronomical journey in Bananki. Arpita is very good at preparing the food and we had our fill. After resting for a while we were on the road again.

The country Home of KUVEMPU - The Great Kannada Litterateur

Our first stop was “Kavi Shyla” – the memorial for Kuvempu, the great poet and litterateur in Kannada. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuvempu )The memorial is built by a team of his disciples and family with lot of love and affection. It shows in the way the ancestral home of Kuvempu has been renovated and converted into a nice museum. The museum has display of rare photographs, items used by the poet, awards and medals won. I have never seen a better memorial to any Indian litterateur (I have not seen Tagore memorial in Shanti Niketan.) The “Kavi Shyla” close to the memorial is a hillock where the poet used to go to draw inspiration from. The setting of the hill is just stunning. It has panoramic views of Sahyadri Mountains with lush green paddy fields in the valley. The team has created “Stonehenge” kind of structure around the place where the poet was cremated. The place has been developed with lot of aesthetic sense. Sringeri – the famed temple town – was the next stop. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shringeri) After visiting temples of Sharada Devi and Vidya Shankara, we spent some time on the serene environs of tunga river before heading back. 

The day dawned with chirping of birds and cries of peacock! After an excellent cuppa, we stepped outside into the garden to see some beautiful birds. Not being a birder, I could only identify a woodpeckerL. The binoculars came in handy as we were able to see at least six types of birds. “Why don’t we go far a small walk” asked Brinda. I was game for it and Rachan recommended us to take a path going down the bungalow leading to a small stream below. Not minding a slight drizzle, we stepped out. The light drizzle, young sun and greenery made the walk a pleasure. On the way, we could see a cute little pond with fringed with bent trees. We came back and Brinda opened her shoe to see in horror a swollen leach between her toe fingers! She was seeing it for the first time and was naturally scared. I told her not to worry, went to kitchen and removed it after smearing it with lime (Sunna/chuna). The lime is supposed to help in clotting blood quickly.

Picturesque Nagara Fort

Breakfast done, we hit the road. We wanted to go off beaten track and just drive in the forests. Our first stop enroute to Nagara was Ambu Thirtha - birth place of Sharavathi River. On the way we passed by Kavale Durga – a small fort atop a hill – with fabulous views of hills. As we entered the Nagara town, we stood bowled over by the fort. The setting – on a small hillock with a lake in the foreground - is romantic and reminded me of Mandu in Madhya Pradesh which I visited 20 years ago. The fort can be covered in 45 minutes. We were keen to see the backwaters of Linganamakki Dam. An hour’s drive from Nagara through woods and streams landed us at the boarding site for ferry.

Surreal picture of backwaters!

This place was just breathtaking. It was huge expanse of water. The clouds, clear water, small islands, submerged tree trunks give this place a tranquil and serene feel. I had thought Thekkady to be picturesque, but this place beats it by miles. The shores are ideal spots for camping. We put our car in ferry and crossed over in ten minutes. Enroute to Sagara, we saw the famous temple at Ikkeri. As we reached Sagara, we were in dilemma. To go to Jog Falls or not. We had seen Jog in full glory couple of years back. It was already 4.30 in the evening and the clouds were giving an early warning. Jog is unpredictable in the evening as envelope of mist blocks the view of falls. We decided against and instead moved towards HEGGODU, the cultural centre with NINASAM repertory (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ninasam) established by KV Subbanna, Magsaysay Award winner. It is a small village known for many cultural and sustainable livelihood activities. Every October, Heggodu comes alive for a week during “Cultural Festival” where literary, development seminars, cultural shows are held. The day was well spent. Leisurely drives in the woods are a good kick indeed. The dinner was fabulous as ever, especially the soup.

The Sandy beach @ Bheemanakatte

Packing up, we planned to leave after an early breakfast. Rachan suggested visiting Bheemana Katte, a small unspoiled place on the banks of Tunga River. River Tunga creates numerous sandy beaches during its course and Bheemana Katte happens to have one of the longest. There was a plan to mine the sand but local opposition drove away the contractors. Thus the place was saved! On the way, we wanted to visit Bhadra reservoir in Lakkavalli near Tarikere. But it started raining and we decided against.

As we drove back, we promised ourselves to come back to “Malnad” and savour the other sights we had not explored – Agumbe, Kundadri, Kodachadri, Kavale Durga, Gudavi bird sanctuary, Belligave, Gerusoppa, Hidlamane Falls, Koodli, Chandragutti, Kanoor fort, Bhadra reservoir……………and many other places.

So folks, here is an excellent alternate destination to Pondy, Coorg, Ooty, Wayanad, Chikkamagalur and Yercaud for your long weekends. One can comfortably spend three days exploring the places. If you are a trekker add couple of more days.

An underrated, unexplored Tirthahalli and Malnad beckon you! So, what are you waiting for? Not packing your bags?

Getting there

Tirthahalli is 330 KMs from Bangalore.

By Car

The route is Bangalore - Tumkur - Tiptur - Arsikere - Kadur - Tarikere - Bhadravati (bye pass) - Shivamogga - Tirthahalli

Road till Tumkur is four lane and excellent. Road beyond is two lane and is quite good. There is hardly any traffic on this stretch beyond Tumkur which helps build up speed. Travel time 6 Hours with half hour break in my fiesta.

By Bus

There are many buses to Shivamogga from Bangalore and from there it is 1.15 hour journey to Tirthahalli.

By Train

The inter city night train to Shivamogga is a good option to those who do not want to drive.

Stay Options

Bananki as mentioned is good. The USP is excellent food. The accommodation is decent. There are other good home stays around Tirthahalli. Get more details from http://www.travelmalnad.com/

Travel Tips

a) Make Tirthahalli as base to explore Malnad region of Shivamogga district and also neighbouring Chikmagalur (for Sringeri, Agumbe and Horanadu). Being centrally located it has good access to many places in the region. The place can be visited through out the year. Though monsoons are heavy, but you can enjoy the rain.

b) An excellent alternative to Wayanad and Pondicherry for long weekends from Bangalore. The driving time is same.

c) A pristine and unexplored territory.

d) Good place for religious minded too - Sringeri, Kollur, Ikkeri etc....

e) Good and leisurely drives in western ghats. Do not hurry up!!

f) An excellent area for trekking buffs.

g) Great place for wild life enthusiasts - specially for birders

h) Carry good binoculars and good shoe. Be willing to rough it out if needed.

i) Heggodu comes alive every October during cultural festival which has seminars, dramas, folk performances, rural market etc.

You may also like the following posts on Malnad in this blog

An itinerary to explore Malnad

Monsoon drive in Malnad

Driving Holidays from Bangalore - Magical Malnad!

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