Ladakh Diaries 7 - Himalayas from the Sky!

Our week long adventure in Ladakh was coming to an end. What started of as a round trip from Manali to Srinagar with stopover at Leh had to be curtailed at Leh due to security situation in Srinagar. We missed another fabulous drive from Leh to Srinagar via Kargil. We should do that during our next trip to Ladakh.

We had booked our flight to Delhi from Leh since we dropped the idea of driving to Srinagar. The flights from Leh to Delhi are all in the morning. Knowing the fickle weather conditions in mountains, we were keeping our fingers crossed and hoping for good weather and smooth take off.

Our departure was at 7 AM which meant getting up early and reaching the airport by 5.30 AM. We settled dues with Ladakh Safari, (http://www.ladakhsafari.com/) our tour operator on the previous day and bid good bye to Deleks Namgyal who had arranged everything for us flawlessly. Zigmet, the driver was ready with the car at 5 AM with the good news that weather was good and flight will take off in time.

It was still dark when we reached Leh airport. Located in Military area, it is a small airport which is used by both civilian and military aircraft. All flights to Leh are from Delhi and they arrive in the morning and return back. The airport shuts down for civilian aircraft after 10 AM unless there is a delay due to weather.

We sit there in the lounge reminiscing the good times we had in this fabulous mountain country. The landscape, the people, the culture, the drives, the food, shopping.........everything was fantastic. The memories of this trip will remain with us forever and we will definitely come back some time again.

We board the flight and settle down as the flight take off. Now the most surprising part or the grand finale of the trip was to happen as i look out of the window. We see fabulous scenes of Himalayas, Indus river as the plane slowly attain the height. We are lucky that we got the seats on the correct side to watch beautiful snow clad mountains in morning light.

Here are the pictures we shot from the plane............

View of Indus river and Leh cantonment as flight take off

The rigged terrain of Ladakh mountains

As plane gain height, we see first glimpse of snow clad peaks

We are now above cloud line and mountain peaks look like a silver line at a distance

This is one of my favourites......the peaks in all glory rising above cloud line

Mesmerising sight of rugged valleys, snow clad peaks and low hanging clouds

This is another favourite.......the cloud balls resemble parachutes hovering over the mountains!!

Mountains in full glory....

We reach Delhi after an hour's flight from Leh and reached Bangalore in the afternoon.

Do plan a trip to Ladakh. It is a fantastic experience you will always remember. If you are planning India Travel, do include Ladakh and Leh as part of your itinerary. If you are flying to Leh from Delhi, make sure you have a window seat with camera handy!

This is the Seventh post in "Ladakh Diaries" series in this blog. If you want to explore earlier posts - click on the link in this series, please click this link below. Clicking "older posts" at the end of the page will take you to previous posts in the series.

Ladakh Diaries - Our experiences in Ladakh

Did you like this post?  Please share the link with your friends if it can be of help to them. 

Do you need help in planning a trip to Leh and Ladakh? You are welcome to write to me at poorna62@gmail.com.

Happy to help

Ladakh Diaries 6 - Basgo, Magnetic hill and Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

When we planned the trip to Ladakh, we were to come back via Kargil - Drass - Srinagar to New Delhi with a overnight stay in Kargil. The plan was to catch the flight from Srinagar to Bangalore after a day's stay in the houseboat in Srinagar. But a deteriorating security situation Srinagar deteriorating that we had to fly back from Leh itself. Thus, there was no chance for us to experience the drive through Kargil. We wanted to drive for some distance on the road to see the landscape on this highway.

On the last day of our stay in Ladakh, we planned to drive on Kargil Road. There was also magnetic hill to be seen and experienced. Then there was Basgo monastery which is a listed UNESCO Heritage endangered sites list which many do not visit but we did not want to miss.

As usual, we left after breakfast and the plan was to return for lunch in the afternoon. After lunch we had planned to do some shopping for masks and other handicrafts on the streets of Leh.

The road from Leh to Kargil pass through Army camps along Indus. Our first stop was a well known Gurudwara named Gurudwara Patthar sahib. This is a cute little place maintained by Indian army.

Indus river giving us company

Fields in Indus valley providing lovely contrast

The legend is that  on one morning when the Guru was sitting in meditation, the demon pushed a large pathar (boulder), down from the hilltop, with the intention of killing the Guru. The boulder gained speed as it rumbled down the hillside, but when it touched the Guru's body, it softened like warm wax and came to a halt against Guru Nanak's back. The Guru kept on meditating unhurt and undisturbed. Thinking that the Guru had been killed, the demon came down and was taken aback to see the Guru deep in meditation. In a fit of anger, he tried to push the boulder with his right foot, but as the pathar still had the softness of warm wax, his foot got embedded in it. Pulling his foot from the boulder the demon was dumbfounded to see the impression his foot had just left in the stone

Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

The sanctum sanctorum. Notice the boulder

This is serene place and worth spending few moments of peace.

We continue the drive and drive past army settlements along Indus river. Behind the army barracks, i am intrigued to see the sand formations. They looked like sand walls weathered by harsh and cold winds creating Burroughs.

The sand wall formations behind army lines

The drive till Basgo is just lovely. The weather was fantastic. The clear blue skies with few clouds added to the beauty of the landscape. We drive along Indus on one side and mountains on the other.  Zigmet stops the car and show us the confluence point of Zanskar and Indus. The difference in colour is obvious and Zanskar is a fast flowing river famous for river rafting.

Leh - Srinagar highway

Beautiful vistas as we drive towards Basgo

The green board is the place known as Magnetic Hill

The Indus valley

Confluence of Indus and Zanskar. Indus is darker.

Lovely landscape on the way

We turn left and drive for few KMs to Basgo village. The place is an example in isolation in Zanskar valley. Weather beaten sand walls welcome us. Small ravine like valleys give this place a beauty in itself. The famous Basgo monastery is not as big as Tiksey. There was a lone Japanese tourist exploring the place apart from us. The place is desolate. The interiors are dark. All the monks in the monastery had gone to see Dalai Lama who had camped in Nubra for the last one month. The lone monk in the monastery conducted us and explained the outstanding murals in the monastery. To our bad luck, there was no power and the monk was gracious enough to explain to us in torch light.

Basgo Monsatery ( Photo Courtesy - Shanmugam Sriraman )

Beautiful murals inside the monastery

Landscape of Basgo village

Colourful stupas (Photo courtesy - Shanmugam Sriraman )

On the way back, i ask Zigmet if we can get me Chaang - the famed rice beer locally brewed by Ladakhis. Yes, why not comes reply and we stop at a small road side restaurant. Zigmet talks to the lady owner who obviously know him and she comes with a bottle of Chaang freshly brewed. She says that they brew the beer fresh and don't sell old stock. Zigmet confirms. The beer is chilled and taste excellent. It is slightly tangy and less bitter but refreshing.

A typical Ladakhi house

We return back and on the way Zigmet stops at Magnetic hill. This is a "Anti gravity hill" and the magnetic forces are to here are to work opposite and pull vehicles uphill even when they are standing on a slope. Interesting indeed. We experience it and drive back to the hotel for lunch.

Travel Tips

a) Basgo and Gurudwara can be covered as a half day excursion. Alternately if one is driving back via Srinagar, they can visit these placs on the way.

b) The tour of Basgo village and monastery will require atleast an hour.

c) We could see some boats on the banks Indus at the confluence point. We did not check about it. Some agencies in Leh may be organisisng either river rafting or boating in these rivers.

This is the Sixth post in "Ladakh Diaries" series of nine posts in this blog. If you want to explore earlier/later posts - click on the link in this series, please click this link below. Clicking "older posts" at the end of the page will take you to previous posts in the series.

Ladakh Diaries - Our experiences in Ladakh

 Useful links

Wiki on Ladakhi beer

On Basgo

Wiki on Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

Magnetic Hill 

Glossary

Gurudwara - Holy place for Sikhs like church is for Christians

Did you like this post?  Please share the link with your friends if it can be of help to them. 

Do you need help in planning a trip to Leh and Ladakh? You are welcome to write to me at poorna62@gmail.com.

Happy to help

Ladakh Diaries 5 - Leh to Pangong Tso, the lake @ 15000 feet

After the summit drive to Khardung La, we were looking forward to our next day's trip to Pangong Tso. It is a high altitude lake at 15,000 feet. For anyone traveling to Ladakh, a visit to the lake is a must. Ever since it was show cased beautifully in Aamir Khan's Bollywood blockbuster "3 Idiots", it is "the hot spot" for the tourists visiting Ladakh. This a good example of how one movie can make all the difference. It had happened earlier to places like Ooty, Kodaikanal, Shimla, Manali and Kashmir.  Now it the turn of Ladakh to get swarmed by tourists.

As usual, Zigmet, our driver was ready with his vehicle at 5 in the morning and we set out for the drive to this lake at dawn. Driving in the hills as the sun comes up is an experience to behold. The Shadow-play over the hills is something one cherish for a long time. It happened to us as well. Leaving behind Leh and few KMs on the road, we could see sun coming up and lighting up the ranges. Stok Kongri, the tallest peak was literally basking in the sun.

Shadow-play at Dawn. Notice Stok Kangri - the tallest peak in Ladakh - in the centre.

The best part of the trip to Pangong Tso is the drive. No doubt, the lake is pristine and beautiful. But the drive to reach the lake must rank as one of the most beautiful drives in the country. We cross one of the highest pass in the region - Chang La - on the way. The landscape changes every few KMs and we are greeted by mesmerising landscape with amazing colours of mountains and sand. The barren landscape is broken by small streams with wild flowers growing in abundance. Fortunately, the road was freshly laid and fantastic. There was one patch which was bad - a avalanche prone area - and we had to literally struggle to get past that. But for this, it was a drive we always cherish.

The mustard and barley fields add contrast to barren landscape

The shadow play continues as we climb to Chang La

Yaks grazing

First glimpses of snow as we close in to Chang La

Colourful Prayer flags fluttering in a make shift mandir @ Chang La

Your truly @ Chang La

The bad stretch and avalanche prone area - Notice the snow wall

A frozen lake surrounded by snow clad peaks

We now move into barren and desert landscape. It is disturbed only by a stream with some lovely wild flowers on its banks. Notice the changing colours of the mountains in the succeeding pictures.

First glimpse of the lake

The lake itself is pristine, calm and beautiful. Though tourists have increased, it has not gone to the level of spoiling the pristine charms of the place. You will come across people who will inquire locals - there is hardly anyone except for a small tent selling chai and meals - about where the last scenes of 3 idiots were shot. Grant it to them. The lake is one of the largest brackish water lakes in Asia stretching across India and Tibet. You can not see the farther bank which stretches into Tibet. Fortunately there is no boating arrangements in the lake and hope it will remain so in future as well. The beauty of the place is enhanced when the sky is clear when you can see the reflections of the peaks in the crystal clear water. It was a bit cloudy on this day. Nevertheless, we could capture some nice pictures of the lake.

It is possible to camp on the banks of the lake for which you need prior permission. I have heard from friends who have camped here of watching the sky with millions of stars. The best time to camp should be full moon day.

The lake and its surroundings

The lovely blues of the sky reflected in the clear waters

 We have observed that many a time, we miss out some views which will always strike you on the way back. It did happen to us a s well. Our return journey was fabulous as well. The mountains, the desert, the sky, the clouds all made a beautiful collage.

Natural Zen Garden

To us, the trip to this lake always remain special. The drive, the tranquil lake and pristine surroundings make this a pleasurable day trip. If you are doing this as a day trip, we strongly recommend you to leave Leh early and return early as a road condition in avalanche prone areas may turn out to be a risk.

Travel Tips

a) A visit to Pangong Tso can be comfortably done as a day trip from Leh. If you want to enjoy the stars pitch a tent at night or stay in any Eco-tents pitched by some agencies. Check this out in advance. Leave early and return early if you are going on a day trip. Special permission from district authorities will be needed. Check with any tour operator in Leh and they will help you.

b) If you are staying at night, make sure you have a good tent, sleeping bag and woolens. It will be very cold and windy at night.

c) If you are stuck with any medical emergency, contact army detachments which are nearby. They will be glad to help.

d) Be a responsible tourist. Don't leave any plastic or any other thrash. Take it back with you. Enjoy the tranquility of the lake and surroundings. Don't spoil it with loud music. This is not a place for partying.

e) Savor the drive. Stop and enjoy the nature. It is just awesome. 

f) Always be mentally prepared for delays due to unforeseen landslides. The Border Roads Organization (BRO) is doing an amazing job in keeping these roads in excellent condition. They will clear the blocks in quickest possible time.

Related posts on Ladakh in this blog 

Ladakh diaries 1 - Manali to Leh, Day One 

Ladakh diaries 2 - Manali to Leh, Day 2 

Ladakh Diaries 3 - Leh, Sights of a mountain town 

Ladakh Diaries 4 - To Khardung La, the highest motorable road in the world 

Ladakh diaries 6 - Basgo and Magnetic hill 

 Useful Links

On Wiki - Pangong Tso

If you are staying overnight you can look at this nice link - Camping at Pongong Tso

Glossary

a) Bollywood - Another name for Hindi film industry in India

b) Aamir Khan - One of the super stars of Hindi film industry

c) 3 Idiots - Name of a super hit Hindi film

d) Chai - Indian spicy tea

e) Mandir - Hindu temple

f) Zen garden - Japanese gardens which use minimalistic designs with stone and sand

g) Tso - Ladakhi word for "Lake"

This is the Fifth post in "Ladakh Diaries" series of nine posts in this blog. If you want to explore earlier/later posts - click on the link in this series, please click this link below. Clicking "older posts" at the end of the page will take you to previous posts in the series.

Ladakh Diaries - Our experiences in Ladakh

Did you like this post?  Do you need help in planning a trip to Leh and Ladakh? You are welcome to write to me at poorna62@gmail.com.

Happy to help